Blog

Article Archive

#2 - From Jewels in Chocolate to Jewels in Kaffe!

October 16th, 2014

Are you ready for "crazy gorgeous"?

Do you remember "Jewels in Chocolate"? This is the featured design collection for the 2nd installment of "Eight Elegant and Easy Expression of Love for the Holiday Season"!

Jewels in Chocolate by Sarah Vedeler Designs

This is the quilt that got me started as a quilt designer back in 2009. Can you believe it's been that long?

Then there was "Jewels in Silk", the same quilt made in gorgeous Silk Taffeta from DellaQ. 

Jewels in Silk by Sarah Vedeler Designs

Now we have "Jewels in Kaffe" adorning a super simple, ready made apron and tea towel, the second project in the "Eight Elegant and Easy Expressions of Love for the Holiday Season"!

When I first told my friend Alice what I was planning on doing - stitching a Jewels in Chocolate circle with Kaffe Fassett fabric for the appliqué, she thought I had gone ever so slightly crazy!. When she saw the result, she thought it was "crazy gorgeous"!

Here's a photo of the finished ensemble... an apron and coordinating tea towel.

Jewels in Kaffe by Sarah Vedeler Designs

And here's a full view of the apron. The Jewel in Kaffe was stitched front and center on the bib part of the apron. Then, the same Kaffe fabric was used to "decorate" the apron pockets.

Jewels in Kaffe by Sarah Vedeler Designs

One pocket was taken completely off and replaced with Kaffe fabric. The other pocket had a band of Kaffe fabric stitched to the top.

The new pockets were top-stitched back on to the apron. My favorite foot to use to do this is the BERNINA #34D foot. This foot is the same as the BERNINA #1 foot, only the foot plate is clear plastic instead of metal, and there is a red line running down the center of the foot. When doing top-stitching, place the red line on the edge of the fabric, in this case the new pocket, and then move the needle one or two positions to the left. I find it much easier to follow the edge using this foot than using a "proper" edge stitch foot (the BERNINA #10D foot).

BERNINA #34D foot

Check out the tea towel before stitching...

Jewels in Kaffe by Sarah Vedeler Designs

I used fabric from Kaffe Fassett's Millefiore collection

Now look at it after the "Jewel" has been stitched...

Jewels in Kaffe by Sarah Vedeler Designs

I have to say I went into this project with very little idea of what would happen. I kind of thought that the fabric would dominate completely, and the embroidery would get totally lost. But I was hopeful that something magical would happen. And it did! The embroidery shows up beautifully, and the fabric shines through, all at the same time!

This is the "Jewel" stitched onto the apron..., exact same design, same fabric, different thread colors. 

Jewels in Kaffe by Sarah Vedeler Designs

As always, the thread that I used is AURIfil Cotton Mako 50 weight. I chose colors that matched the colors in the fabric. 

I loved the results so much that I decided to stitch a second color way, this time a white tea towel and a black apron. 

The appliqué fabric is still Kaffe Fassett's Millifiore Collection, but a different, much lighter color. 

Jewels in Kaffe by Sarah Vedeler Designs

This is the "Jewel" on the black apron...

Jewels in Kaffe by Sarah Vedeler Designs

An interesting thing happened with the thread on the lighter colored fabric when I chose shades of AURIfil Cotton Mako to match the colors in the fabric. The thread sort of disappeared - in blended in way too well! So the thread colors on the lighter colored background are a fair bit more intense than the colors in the fabric.

Here are a few notes to help you create your own tea towels and aprons using the "Jewels in Chocolate" designs"

  • Cut a 5" diameter circle of appliqué fabric. A couple of great tools you can use are the AccuQuilt GO! cutter with the Circle 2" 3" 5" die or the Olfa Rotary Circle Cutter. 
  • My favorite fusible webbing to use on fabric being cut with the above tools is Shades Softfuse. If you are going to cut your circle using the Silhouette Cameo digital cutter, then be sure to use Heat N Bond Lite as the fusible webbing on the back of your appliqué fabric. 
  • I stitched my circles so that they are 2" up from the bottom of the towel. Mark the center for the circle 4.5" up from the bottom of the towel (a 5" diameter circle has a radius of 2.5" plus the distance from the edge of the towel).
  • For the apron, the circles were stitched to be 0.5" down from the top stitching at the top of the bib of the apron. Mark the center of the circle 3" down from the top stitching
  • The "Jewels in Chocolate" designs do not have a fabric placement line built in. If you haven't already done so, be sure to download the cross hair that is available here. When you are ready to stitch a "Jewel", first load the 5" crosshair design, then add the "Jewel" design. 
  • Place a 6" square of Aquamesh Plus on the back of the towel so that it is centered over the position that the "Jewel" will stitch. You can mark your placement lines (a big + sign) on this stabilizer. Aquamesh Plus is a sticky, water soluble stabilizer, so when you wash the towel, it will all disappear! But it will give the towel the support that it needs while stitching is happening.
  • Use OESD Ultra Clean and Tear in the hoop. When you are finished stitching, tear away all of the excess stabilizer form around the "Jewel". I did not know this until recently, but Ultra Clean and Tear will disintegrate over the course of a couple of washings. 

Jewels in Kaffe by Sarah Vedeler Designs

Here's me modeling the finished black and white ensemble... very elegant, don't you think?!

Jewels in Kaffe by Sarah Vedeler Designs

If you don't already own the Jewels in Chocolate collection, you can purchase it here.

If you would like to try out the design that I used on the aprons and tea towels, you can purchase that here.  

Jewels in Chocolate also comes super sized!

The Jewels in Chocolate collection contains 3 circle designs that finish at 5" diameter, as well as complete instructions on how to make the quilt.

In addition, the 3 circles are also available in designs that finish at 9.5" diameter. So if you have a nice big hoop (i.e. the wonderful BERNINA Jumbo Hoop!) that can accommodate a design of that size, you can have a super sized ton of fun with this collection!

Here are the 3 big designs...

The first one is stitched onto Fairy Frost fabric with no appliqué fabric underneath the design.

Jewels in Chocolate by Sarah Vedeler Designs

I also stitched this design onto silk...with eye popping AURIfil Cotton Mako thread colors!

Jewels in Chocolate by Sarah Vedeler Designs

The second design is also stitched onto Fairy Frost - both in the background and as the appliqué fabric. 

Jewels in Chocolate by Sarah Vedeler Designs

And again onto silk with AURIfil Cotton Mako thread really popping the design! Just in case your are wondering what color the neon green thread is, it's actually 1147 (my favorite AURIfil green). The turquoise is 2810 and the pinks are 4020 and 2535. The silk fabric throws the light around all over the place so getting true colors in a photo is incredibly difficult! (At least for my photographic skill level!)

Jewels in Chocolate by Sarah Vedeler Designs

Here is the third large "Jewel", the large version of the one stitched onto the tea towels and aprons. 

Jewels in Chocolate by Sarah Vedeler Designs

And also on silk. Isn't it amazing how different they look with the different colors?

Jewels in Chocolate by Sarah Vedeler Designs

Since I was playing with Kaffe Fassett fabric, I decided to do an experiment and put the Kaffe in the background with some solid colored fabric as the appliqué. This is the result...

Jewels in Kaffe by Sarah Vedeler Designs

This is two fat quarters of Kaffe Fassett Millefiore fabric stitched together, with the appliqué circle created out of two colors of Kaffe Fassett's Shot Cottons. The fat quarters gave me a piece of fabric that measured 22" x 36" - which I hemmed. Then I stitched a 1" wide bias strip to each end, 4" in from the edge, to make a casing for threading some ribbon through. Then, with right sides together, I stitched the long edges to create a tube when turned right side out. The bolster pillow was created by stuffing the tube with a roll of batting and then tying the ends.

Jewels in Kaffe by Sarah Vedeler Designs

Because of the way the casing was stitched on, the ribbons emerged at the back of the pillow, so they were cut long enough to wrap around to the front and make a very pretty bow.

Jewels in Kaffe by Sarah Vedeler Designs

All done!

Now it's your turn to go do some stitching! As always, I'd love to see photos of what you create. Leave me a comment and let me know which color combo you like the best... green and turquoise, or black and white? And what do you think about the Jewels in Kaffe... crazy gorgeous - or not so much? 

Until next time,
Happy Stitching!

Sarah Vedeler Designs


Category: 8 Elegant & Easy Expressions of Love | Read 4 Comment(s)

#1 - Finding Hearts in Unexpected Places

October 9th, 2014

Eight Elegant & Easy Expressions of Love for the Holiday Season

Welcome to the first week of an 8 week long series that will help you to create gorgeous gifts for the holiday season - and beyond! Each week will feature a different design collection - and show you how you can use a small "piece" of the design collection in a totally new way to decorate an apron or a tea towel. The finished project will make a gorgeous gift for you to give away to a friend or family member, or maybe keep for yourself.

The featured design collection for this week is Jazzilicious. The project is a pillow - created from a linen-look tea towel. Make sure you read all the way to the end to learn how to:

  • mark the towel to ensure correct placement of the design.
  • finish a tea towel pillow with a zipper closure.
  • finish a tea towel with button closure.
  • create perfect button holes in the hoop using your embroidery machine.

Jazzilicious by Sarah Vedeler Designs

The main Jazzilicious quilt is a 64" diameter circular quilt. The center circle is 36" and the applique filled points are 12" tall.

There are lots of hearts on the Jazzilicious quilt - most of them obvious, but there are a couple that are not so obvious - hence the finding of hearts in unexpected places.

Jazzilicious by Sarah Vedeler Designs

Do you see the heart created by the two spiral shapes? Check out what happens when you take the spiral heart and the feathers at its base, and center it on a tea towel with a reflection... 

Jazzilicious Pillows by Sarah Vedeler Designs

And now check out what happens when you turn the tea towels into gorgeous plump pillows - with a built in flange. The white pillow contains a rectangular pillow form, the pink pillow contains a square pillow form.

Jazzilicious Pillows by Sarah Vedeler Designs

To save time on cutting, and to ensure the spiral hearts are the center of attention, the spirals are the only shapes that contain fabric. The feathers are thread only stitched onto the background of the tea towel. 

Jazzilicious Heart by Sarah Vedeler Designs

The pink on pink is a lot more subtle.

Jazzilicious Heart by Sarah Vedeler Designs

I used two different techniques to finish the back's of the pillows. The pink/square pillow has a zipper to close it.

Zipper by Sarah Vedeler

The white pillow has buttons and snaps (there's a story behind the lack of actual buttons to go with the button holes!). Did you know that it is really easy to create button holes in the hoop using your embroidery machine? The key is to measure the girth of the buttons you are planning on using - not just the length!

Button Holes and Snaps by Sarah Vedeler

Let's get started with some details on how I created the pillows!

Marking the tea towel for embroidery

The tea towels I used (available from your local BERNINA dealer) are about 20" wide and 30" long. Just in case you're wondering why I decided to use tea towels:

  • they are available in a bunch of different colors.
  • I love the weight of the fabric and the linen look it has.
  • They are already hemmed and ready to go! This saves a whole lot of time.
  • They are readily available and affordable. The Dunroven tea towels that I use are $3.99 each.

To give the finished pillows a bit more body, I applied a piece of Pellon ShapeFlex to the wrong side of the towel, about 14" wide and the length of the towel. Mark the ShapeFlex using a Sewline pencil as follows, making sure that the pencil you use will not show through the white towel:

  • Draw a vertical line through the center of the towel (about 10" long).
  • Draw a horizontal line through the center of the towel (also about 10" long).

Stabilizer Marking by Sarah Vedeler

  • Draw a vertical line 3" to the right of the vertical center (shown in blue below)
  • Draw a vertical line 3" to the left of the vertical center (shown in blue below)

Stabilizer Marking 2 by Sarah Vedeler

The design I used is "Point Fill 1-2 Bottom". If you don't own the Jazzilicious collection, you can purchase this one design here. The design is 4.9" x 7.75" so you will need a BERNINA large oval hoop or something larger. The complete design collection does contain this design split into two pieces to allow it to be stitched in a smaller hoop. 

Stitch the design twice. Each time, load a piece of medium weight tearaway stabilizer into your hoop. My favorite is OESD Ultra Clean and Tear.

  • The first time you will match the intersection that stitches out onto the stabilizer in color #1 at the point marked A (see below).
  • The second time you will turn the towel 180 degrees and then match the intersection that stitches out onto the stabilizer in color #1 at the point marked B. 

Stabilizer marking by Sarah Vedeler

If you own the CD and you need a refresher in how to achieve perfect placement, refer to the document "Jazzilicious Pillows.pdf" in the Instructions folder. Start with #1 at the very bottom of page 5. If you are purchasing the individual design, perfect placement instructions are included!

Now that you have completed the embroidery, you need to decide if you will finish the pillow with a zipper closure or some buttons and button holes.

How to install a zipper in a tea towel pillow

Installing a zipper is easy - when you know how!

The edge of the tea towel is already finished and this makes installing the zipper not just easy, but super easy! I used a 14" long zipper. 

  • Mark the center of one short edge of the tea towel.
  • Mark the center of the zipper.
  • With the two centers matching, and the zipper open, place the edge of the tea towel next to the zipper teeth as shown in the photo below.

Inserting a zipper by Sarah Vedeler

  • I used the #34D foot on my B880 to stitch the towel to the zipper. Place the right hand side of the foot against the zipper teeth. Move the needle as far to the right as it will go. Start stitching about 1/8" before the zipper teeth start - marked by the pin in the photo below. Be sure to secure your stitches either with a few very tiny stitches, or by stitching forward 2 stitches, back 2 stitches and then forward again.

Inserting a zipper by Sarah Vedeler

  • When the first side has been stitched, close the zipper.
  • Fold the tea towel as it will be when it is finished. 
  • Make sure that the ends of the towel are aligned as in the photo below.
  • Place the edge of the towel next to the zipper teeth as you did for the first side and stitch. I find it easier to open the zipper while starting the seam. When you get to about half way down the zipper, close it up again. This ensures that the zipper pull does not get in the way or cause ugly bumps in the stitching.

Inserting a zipper by Sarah Vedeler

With a 14" zipper, there is about 3" of open towel at each end of the zipper. I butted the edges up against each other and used a wide zigzag stitch to hold the edges together. 

Fold the towel so that the zipper is centered. Draw a line 3" in from the edge of the towel. This should just about line up with the end of the zipper! Stitch along this line to close the ends of the pillow. If desired, you can add a decorative ribbon on top of this stitching line.

Jazzilicious Pillow by Sarah Vedeler

Now all you have to do is insert a pillow form!

How to create button holes in the hoop using your embroidery machine

First of all you need to measure your buttons - not just the length, but the girth as well! I was intending to use polymer clay buttons that I had made a while back. Only thing is, they are quite thick - a fact that I did not take into consideration when measuring them to make the button holes. Snaps came to my rescue!

To make the button holes in the hoop using your BERNINA embroidery machine:

  • Load a piece of heavy weight tearaway stabilizer into your hoop.
  • On the embroidery home screen, select the machine stitches folder - the 3rd form the left.
  • Buttonholes in the hoop by Sarah Vedeler
  • Then choose the button hole folder - 4th from the left.
  • Buttonholes in the hoop by Sarah Vedeler
  • Choose a button hole. I used #2. If you are planning on stitching out a lot of button holes using your embroidery machine, it might be a good idea to stitch a sampler so that you know what each button hole looks like.
  • Buttonholes in the hoop by Sarah Vedeler
  • The default settings for a button hole are 16mm long. 
  • Buttonholes in the hoop by Sarah Vedeler
  • I determined that I wanted my button hole to be 1" long. It's handy to know that 1" = 25.4mm, so I needed to increase the length of the button hole. To do this, I clicked the "i" button and then used the stitch length knob (the bottom one) to increase the length of the button hole.
  • Buttonholes in the hoop by Sarah Vedeler
  • I wanted to stitch 3 button holes - all perpendicular to the edge of the tea towel. I used the rotate feature to rotate the button hole by 90 degrees.
  • Buttonholes in the hoop by Sarah Vedeler
  • The default hoop for a button hole is the small hoop. In order to fit 3 button holes, I changed the hoop to the Large Oval Hoop.
  • Buttonholes in the hoop by Sarah Vedeler
  • I then used the duplicate button to create a second button hole. This is the 4th button down on the left hand side.
  • Buttonholes in the hoop by Sarah Vedeler
  • Then I moved the new button hole up in the hoop. I always need to remember that when "move" is selected, the stitch width button moves the design from side to side and the stitch length button moves the design up and down in the hoop.
  • Buttonholes in the hoop by Sarah Vedeler
  • When I duplicated the second button hole, it was automatically evenly spaced with the two existing button holes.
  • Buttonholes in the hoop by Sarah Vedeler
  • Now you are ready to stitch the button holes onto your pillow!
  • I stitched my button holes so that they were 1.5" in from the edge of the towel.
  • If my buttons were the correct size for my beautiful button holes, they would have been stitched 1.5" in from the edge at the other end of the towel.
  • When the buttons are in the button holes, there should be a 3" overlap of towel. Make sure that this is centered. Draw a line 3" in from the edge of the towel. Stitch along this line to close the ends of the pillow. If desired, you can add a decorative ribbon on top of this stitching line.

All done!

Jazzilicious Pillow by Sarah VedelerI hope you have as much fun with this project as I did! I'd love to see photos of what you create. If you receive my email newsletter, you can hit reply to that and attach photos. 

Leave me a comment below and tell me which pillow do you like best - the pink one of the white one? Who will you be making tea towel pillows for this holiday season?

Happy Stitching,

Sarah Vedeler


Category: 8 Elegant & Easy Expressions of Love | Read 7 Comment(s)

Why I love my Gingher Rotary Cutters

September 10th, 2014

Not all rotary cutters are made equal!

I bought my first Gingher rotary cutter (the purple flowery one in the photo below) because it was so beautiful. And then I used it - and fell in love! 

Gingher Rotary Cutter

The handle is weighted perfectly in my opinion - it's a tool that is a pleasure to use. The blade is smooth and super sharp, especially when brand new, so cutting is very easy. But all blades need to be replaced at some point.

This is where I think the Gingher rotary cutter rises above all others. It is possible to change the blade without ever actually touching a blade - either the old one coming off, or the new one going on. Here's how...

New Gingher Rotary Cutter blades come in a package containing not just the new blade, but a holder for the new blade and the old one. First you need to take the old blade off the cutter - this is done by twisting the knob on top of the blade and , still holding onto the knob, lifting the blade away from the cutter. 

Gingher Rotary Cutter

The old blade can now be placed in the open space on the blade holder.

Gingher Rotary Cutter

Next, slide the protective shield up as far as it will go.

Gingher Rotary Cutter

Then remove the knob from the old blade. The protective shield will allow you to do this without having to touch the old blade. Slide the protective shield all the way up until the new blade is exposed.

Gingher Rotary Cutter

Now put the knob into the new blade and lift the new blade away from the blade holder.

Gingher Rotary Cutter

The new blade can now be placed onto the Gingher Rotary Cutter, and the knob tightened. You are all ready to go with some super clean cuts! And you haven't touched the old blade or the new blade, so all of your fingers should still be intact :-)

Gingher Rotary Cutter

The old blade can be tossed into the garbage can in the protective blade holder and there is no risk of anyone or anything being cut unawares.

Gingher Rotary Cutter

I love the Gingher Rotary Cutter so much I now have three of them. Many of my friends who have been in my studio and used my Gingher Rotary Cutters now have Gingher Rotary Cutters of their own.

What's your favorite quilting tool? Leave me a comment below telling me what and why!

Happy cutting :-)

Sarah Vedeler Designs


Read 6 Comment(s)

How to cut crystal/rhinestone templates using the Cameo

August 27th, 2014

While I was working on "It's a Sterling Life on Berkeley Square" I fell in love with crystals - largely because it is so easy to apply them using the BERNINA DesignWorks software and the CrystalWorks tool. But what if you don't have a CrystalWorks tool - and you do have a Silhouette Cameo? How can the Cameo be used to cut crystal templates?

Creating a Crystal Template

I'm assuming that you have a design file for the template that you want to create. This could be a design that you have purchased or one that you have created using the Silhouette Studio software.

You will need the following supplies:

  • Rhinestone template material
  • Rhinestone transfer film
  • Rhinestone backing board
The easiest way to get started is to use a Silhouette Rhinestone Tempalte Kit which contains 3 of everything!

Silhouette Rhinestone Template Kit

The template material needs to be placed on a cutting mat and then the cutting mat can be loaded into the Cameo.

Silhouette Rhinestone Template Material

The recommended blade setting for cutting Silhouette Rhinestone Template Material is 6. I decided that I would add some extra cutting power, so I set my blade to 7.

Silhouette Cameo Blade

You might be wondering why I'm using a blue "fabric" blade to cut the Rhinestone Template Material. There's a really simple answer... it's the blade that happened to be in the Cameo when I turned it on! It turns out that the black blade and the blue blade are exactly the same with the exception of the color of the housing. So... if you're organized, you can have one blade for cutting fabric and another blade for cutting everything else.

Once the template material has been placed on a cutting mat which has then been loaded into the Cameo, start cutting! I was quite surprised how quickly the cutting happened, given that there are quite a lot of tiny circles being cut! 

Silhouette Cameo Rhinestone Template Cutting

If cutting fabric generates lint, cutting rhinestone template material generates lint x 100! And it's sticky lint. I used a pair of tweezers to pull all the lint and stickiness away from the blade

Silhouette Cameo Blade

There are little black dots everywhere when you have finished cutting. I found that it is a lot easier to rub as many as possible off while the template material is still on the cutting mat. Then remove the template material from the backing paper and remove any remaining dots by poking them from the back.

The template material can then be stuck onto a piece of backing board. Make sure that the template material is smooth and flat. There's nothing worse that having little air pockets in a template that crystals can get stuck in!

Silhouette Cameo Rhinestone Template

Applying Crystals using a Template

Now that you have a template it is super simple to use it to apply crystals to your project.

In the beginning, I would pour out a few crystals at a time and nudge them into the holes. I discovered that it is a LOT easier to dump a bunch of crystals (more than you think you will need) onto the template...

Silhouette Cameo Rhinestone Template

... and use a crystal brush to get the crystals into the holes. You may be pleasantly surprised how many crystals will fall into a hole the right way up! You can always use a pair of tweezers to flip any upside down crystals or fill the few remaining holes.

Silhouette Cameo Rhinestone Template

Now it's time for the Rhinestone Transfer Film. I apply one motif at a time using the smallest piece of transfer film possible. You can't be too gentle when placing the transfer film on the crystals - you want to get it down so that it knows you're the one in charge! Try to put it down gently and I think you will understand what I mean! The crystal brush can come in really handy here too - I rub it over the transfer film to make sure that all of the crystals have stuck to the transfer film.

Silhouette Cameo Rhinestone Transfer Film

Peel the transfer film away from the template slowly. If there are any crystals that did not stick to the film, you can usually catch them and rub over the film with the crystal brush. If you don't catch them (see photo below!) you can always add the missing crystals later.

Silhouette Cameo Rhinestone Transfer Film

Place the crystals where you want them and make sure that the transfer film is flat with no kinks in it.

Silhouette Cameo Rhinestone Transfer Film

Now cover the transfer film with a piece of fabric and use a hot iron - held in place for the count of 10 - until you have covered the whole template. 

Silhouette Cameo Rhinestone Transfer Film

It can be very tempting to pull the transfer film up as soon as you are done with the iron. Chances are you will bring up a whole bunch of crystals too. Let the transfer film - and the crystal adhesive - cool before very carefully lifting the film up and away from the crystals. 

Silhouette Cameo Crystals/Rhinestones applied

And there you have it! 

Here's a bigger glimpse of the quilt that I've been working on for the last couple of weeks. 

Inspired by Libby by Sarah Vedeler

There is also a "sister" quilt in different colors, which is still a work in progress...

Inspired by Libby by Sarah Vedeler

Which is your favorite color combo? Green and blue or light and dark pinks? Leave a comment below with your answer!

Until next time... Happy Stitching - and cutting!

Sarah Vedeler Designs


Read 19 Comment(s)

How to cut appliqué shapes with a Cameo

August 20th, 2014

My first attempt to cut appliqué shapes with my Silhouette Cameo cutter was a disaster! Since that time I have discovered a formula that is working very successfully, so I'd like to share that formula with you.

In a nutshell:

Fabric + Heat N Bond Lite + Blade at #2 = Success

Let's see it in action.

Cutting appliqué shapes using a mat

Prepare your appliqué fabric by applying Heat N Bond Lite to the back. The key here is to make sure that the bond is really good. 

Why Heat N Bond Lite? It melts into the fabric as you are fusing it to the fabric and you don't need to apply anything else to the fabric you are trying to cut! 

Leave the backing paper on and place the fabric on the mat, backing paper down.

For the project I was working on, I had a bunch of smallish shapes to be cut out of different colors of fabric. I arranged the shapes on the 12" x 12" cutting mat so that they were aligned with the grid - that way I could position my pieces of fabric on the mat to match up with the grid.

Cutting appliqué shapes with Silhouette Cameo

I have found that the best way to make sure the fabric is secure on the mat is to use one of my smaller rotary cutting rulers as a scraper/smoother. If I have a 12" x 12" square of fabric to cut, then I will use a 12" long ruler to help smooth the fabric onto the mat.

Cutting appliqué shapes with Silhouette Cameo

The default blade setting for cutting fabric (thin fabrics) is #3. I have found that this will cut through the fabric and the backing paper - and I don't necessarily want to cut through the backing paper, so I usually set my blade to #2.

Cutting appliqué shapes with Silhouette Cameo

Each time I start a new cutting session, I make sure that the blade is clean. Did you know that you can remove the little white cap on the end of the blade to make cleaning easy? A fair amount of lint usually builds up - and the cuts will be a lot better if the lint is cleaned away.

Cutting appliqué shapes with Silhouette Cameo

This is what a clean blade should look like!

Cutting appliqué shapes with Silhouette Cameo

Feed the mat into the Cameo. The white grippers are at the outermost positions on both ends of the roller.

Cutting appliqué shapes with Silhouette Cameo

Now you are good to cut!

Cutting appliqué shapes with Silhouette Cameo

When cutting has completed, remove the mat from the Cameo. Use a spatula tool to lift up each shape. It will lift cleanly off the fusible webbing backing paper (which will be stuck to the mat!). I like to leave the backing paper on and have it stick to the mat rather than removing the backing paper and having the fusible webbing backed fabric stick directly to the mat as when the fabric is stuck to the mat there is always the risk that the fabric will be stretched, especially the edges, when you attempt to remove it from the mat.

Cutting appliqué shapes with Silhouette Cameo

There is usually a thread or two that needs to be clipped with a pair of scissors.

Cutting appliqué shapes with Silhouette Cameo

Who can guess what it is I'm going to be making with these shapes? Make sure you stop by next week to find out!

Cutting appliqué shapes with Silhouette Cameo

Cutting appliqué shapes without a mat

If you are cutting a full 12" x 12" square of fabric, there is no need to use a mat! Simply apply the fusible webbing to the back of your fabric - and leave the backing paper on. Move the white gripper on the right hand side of the roller in one notch and choose the "Load Media" option on the Cameo.

Cutting appliqué shapes with Silhouette Cameo

When you are not using a mat, you want to make sure you are doing a "kiss" cut - i.e. you don't want to cut through the backing paper! If you have the blade set to #2 when cutting on a mat, set the blade to #1 when cutting without a mat. Make sure you check that the fabric has been cut before unloading it - if it didn't cut all the way through, you can always do a second cut as long as you haven't unloaded the fabric from the Cameo.

Cutting appliqué shapes with Silhouette Cameo

This is what you should see from the back... the backing paper has been scored, and for the most part it has not been cut all the way through (although there are a couple of areas where it did get cut through).

Cutting appliqué shapes with Silhouette Cameo

It's really easy now to use the spatula tool to lift the appliqué shapes off the backing paper. 

Cutting appliqué shapes with Silhouette Cameo

The best thing about cutting without a mat is that you don't have to deal with removing the backing paper from the mat! 

Do you remember...

What I showed you last week? 

Inspired by Libby

I thought you might like to see the work in progress :-)

4 each of each block have been stitched and I now need to get them assembled into a finished quilt. I'm excited about this particular project as it has been completely quilted in the hoop. Leave me a comment at the bottom and let me know what you think!

Inspire by Libby

This is what I'm also working on this week. Who can answer this question... What is the significance of the grey spools? Leave your answer in a comment below!

AURIfil Thread with Frond Design Studios fabric

Until next time... Happy Stitching!

Sarah Vedeler Designs


Read 34 Comment(s)
1 2 3 4 5 next